DIY built in washer + dryer
Some affiliate links are used at no additional cost to you. Thank you for supporting my blog! For more information, visit my Disclosure.

I’ve been meaning to share with you guys how I built in the washer and dryer for a few weeks now. Summer is good for many things. Being a productive blogger it is not. I don’t know if I should call this project a built in washer and dryer or a washer and dryer folding table. I guess it’s both.

This has been such an awesome addition to our laundry room makeover. One of my constant battles with doing laundry was having something rattle off the top of the machines and fall into the abyss on the sides, in between, or behind. Yes, I could have not put things on top, but it was my catch all and that’s just the way it was. I also had problems with the pedestal Mike and I built several years back. While it was easier pulling things out of the machines while they were raised, I couldn’t lean over them to get to the cabinet above without pulling out a step stool. And I’m not short. So to the curb the pedestal went and I’ve never been happier!
Since every laundry room is different and the heights of machines vary, I’ll just tell you guys the sizes of wood pieces I used to build mine but will spare you measurements.
WHAT YOU’LL NEED:
- 2×2’s for supports
- 1×6’s for front side facings (can use smaller or wider pieces depending on your needs)
- 1×2 for front top facing
- Pine panels for table top
- large L bracket (may not need, explained below)
- wood glue
- wood screws
- finishing nails (I used a nail gun)
- level
STEP ONE:

STEP TWO:

STEP THREE:
Attach the 1×2 across the top of the side facing pieces with wood glue and finishing nails. If needed, you can also attach another support piece to the back wall to support the table top. You’ll notice my back support sits up higher than the side supports. This is to support a removable shelf I made to hide the hook ups. If you’re outlets and hookups sit below where your top table piece will hit, then you won’t need this to be placed higher. It will sit at the same height as your side supports.

STEP FOUR:


STEP FIVE:


And with the unattached 6″ deep back piece. It is supported mostly by the back L bracket and then also the side supports.

STEP SIX:
To hide the hook ups and electrical outlets I made a T-shaped ledge out of the remaining panel. It is also not attached to the wall so that it can be removed if need be. The top of the ledge sits on top of the support piece on the back wall.


STEP SEVEN:



Comments
Newesti love this idea! we have a top loading washing machine, but in the future….
It turned out great. I'm gonna have a real laundry room like yours when I grow up.
Looks awesome, Shelly. This is in my to-do list. The wood is already and waiting in the garage, just need to find some time to get to it. It turned out beautiful.
God your good. So jealous. I need you to move into my house for like a month. I'll take care of your children and make sure you have plenty of margaritas.
This is such a perfect solution. I have the same problem in my laundry room with the hose box and outlets showing. I will have to take a look to see if I can do something like this. I do have a sink next to mine so I will have to work that in some how. Great tutorial!
Shelley
You will LOVE it!!! Nothing drove me more crazy than loosing a sock or something to the abyss behind or in between the machines. There's just so much workable space now too. It keeps me from having to drag all the unfolded laundry to my bedroom for folding. I think you can totally make this work with a sink nearby!
Where did you get the pine panels for the countertop?
I picked them up from Lowes, but I'm sure most larger home improvement stores have something similar.
how much space did you leave between the machines and counter top. Thanks
There's about an inch from the top of the machines to where the counter begins.
I'm wondering what the dimensions are for the t-shaped ledge. Is the white piece a 1×4 or a 1×6? and what's the width of the panel on the top of the white piece? 6 inches? Thanks!
Hi David! The white piece is a 1×4 and the piece on top is 5.5 inches. Hope this helps!
Hi Shelley, How did you attach the t-bar to the back? Curious if the shimmy from the machines kept it loose?
Thanks!
Hi! The base of the T (the white portion) sits on top of the table, and the top of the T (the stained portion) is supported by the 1×2 that is attached to the back of the wall. There's no problem with it shimmying because the table is built up from the machines instead of resting on them.
So pretty!! Where did you get the wallpaper?
It's from Walls Republic http://wallsrepublic.shopgate.com/item/3433363036
So glad you liked it, Karen! Thank you!!
Great idea! I love it. I’m thinking of doing something similar. I’m just wondering, if there is a problem with the machine and a repair man has to come fix it, how will he be able to get to the washer/dryer? Do you have to take them out, disessemble the table, or is there a solution? Thanks
Hi Brianna! The back 2/3rds of the table top isn’t attached so it can be taken off for quick/easy access to electrical outlets and the connections. If they need to do a repair, they’d have to pull the appliances out to access the backs but my guess is they would have to do that whether or not they were built in. If you don’t have enough space to have them pulled completely out from the built in, I would suggest not attaching any part of the table top to the supports. That way you could remove the top all together if needed. Hope this helps!
I love this! I especially like how you dealt with the connections being higher than the washer. My husband suggested that we needed venting for the washer and drier. Do you find that being an issue?
Thank you! Honestly, I haven’t worried about extra venting. The dryer is still set up to vent out through the normal/proper ductwork and there’s actually more space between the walls and above the machines than it appears as the white side trim and horizontal piece that runs under the front of the countertop are only facing pieces and don’t extend the full depth. Not sure that I made any sense with that 😀
I love this! What kind of paint/stain did you use? Did you prime first? Did you seal it to make it more resistant to water? Thanks!
Hi Meredith! The paint is Benjamin Moore Simply White, regular interior satin. I did use primer. Unfortunately, the stain on the table top was a mixture of some leftover stains I had in the garage.
How would you support the countertop if one side is open with a sink beside it? Placing a piece of wood or paneling vertically might work but I don’t know how to attach it to the wall and floor. Any ideas?
if your sink is part of a cabinet, maybe you could attach support brackets to the side of the sink’s cabinet.